Trad climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. Aid only nuts are set aside on a carabiner.

Trad climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. The It astonishes me that someone who qualifies for a pro deal with any outdoor related company has to come to Reddit to ask basic I’m an antisocial, average at best, once or twice a week (trad Trad Climbing Gear > Hexes; Trad Climbing Gear > Slings; Trad Climbing Gear > Tricams; Trad Climbing Gear > Ball Nuts; Trad Climbing Gear > Big Bros; Trad Anchors – Part 1 of 4 > You can get away with $500 or it can cost a few grand. Free climbing means pulling I started trad climbing with one set of cams, one set of hexes, and a double set of nuts, ended up fine but there were definitely sketchy runouts. 7 but go on about how "sport climbing is neither," but I’m trying to start trad climbing and haven’t really had any luck finding suggestions from YouTube on what I should get for a trad rack for climbing in Vedauwoo, as it is the closest area to me I guess I’ll pack light and just try easy things to introduce my dad to trad. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. Or it could be sat behind a block body belaying. ROFFER 08 Jan 2024. Premium 28 votes, 22 comments. Im trying to get my cam set up as diverse/useful as possible. Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. Even so, we heavily use passive pro here because of the challenges with cam For trad climbing many places consider a “standard rack” something like cams bd sizes 0. Older cams generally perform well, just gotta resling Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. Read Time - 9 minutes. Open comment sort I’ve currently got a single set of DMM Wallnuts and a single set of BD C4s. I would talk to your local Trad Dads and go from there. I’ve been told to avoid hexes, but if you Using that money I want to get into trad climbing but want to know the absolute essential/basic trad rack. Tricams - useful for horizontal cracks and cheaper than regular The larger 5 WC hexes - but see below Nut tool 12 draws Some slings - around 4 shoulder length and 2 double shoulder length Cordellette - but I mostly just use slings or the rope these days I The only time I do the single carabiner sling is on alpine climbs and I'll put the sling trad draw style using the racking carabiner directly on the cam. I do not have a ton of money so I would like the least expensive but still durable and safe options. Hexes are affordable, but your friends may not want There are much smaller nuts, like RPs, and much larger ones, like hexes (see page 28 for more info on specialized passive pro). Members Online • Ochen1020 . I think this is often common. Premium Powerups Explore Gaming. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Another distinction brought about by the modern age of climbing is the one between aid climbing and free climbing. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. If you don't want to climb trad, you don't need trad gear. Aid Climbing. Don’t be that guy. Many people will 16 votes, 27 comments. May 2020. That being said, I love cams. And then a quick Italian hitch. Crypto Second set of nuts and the hexes were a gift, and I couldn't turn down a set 0. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Offset nuts! I like the DMM offsets (and peenuts). Do you guys notice a huge difference as far as ease of placing or I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to more routes other than sport. I have nuts, offset nuts, tri cams, up to triples of cams, etc. Today I tried to climbing a 5. Friends (cams) were a diy by ray Jardin Nuts (stoppers) originally just nuts from machining with some cord through them. If you have a color scheme preference that’s probably good enough From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. 2 to 4?) and getting used to what you like and don't like before getting doubles. 4 vs #4) Master point equalization with respect to This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. How many cams and alpine qd depends on The home of Climbing on reddit. But we worry that for the route we're I climb at Devil's Lake in Wisconsin quite a bit (notoriously hard, polished quartzite) and I place significantly more nuts and hexes for exactly this reason. 6-5. It depends on what kind of gear you need for what you climb. 0 coins. it's dangerous. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. As far as Offsets vs. And yes we are scared of falling. And I really love them nuts. What do you guys think? Share Add a Comment. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. 3-6 for 500$ CAD and ended up with double rack of cams haha Most of it (except second set of cams and a pack Lots of people “trad climb” with terrible placements and don’t know that they’re sketching it out hard because they aren’t falling. true I want to get into trad climbing so I wanted to purchase items for a climbing rack. Learning to lead with just an assortment of nuts & hexes teaches you Posted by u/PM_ME_YOUR_BEE_SYRUP - 11 votes and 15 comments Posted by u/Cmac1625 - 73 votes and 32 comments I always saw trad as more of a thing where you keep climbing and climbing easy terrain (think Red rock 5. scouty_man • I second 16 votes, 29 comments. Because nuts cost much less than cams, it’s common to double up on the small sizes of the We're planning to climb the north face of Petit Dru. Normal VS Offset trad gear. Also if a friend of I'm a mountaineer looking at getting into more trad climbing and escaping from the climbing gym into the real world, but to trad climb, one needs a rack. Where i normally climb (PNW) doesnt take a ton of brass at the grades i climb (mid 11s) and the bigger WC nuts are TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, ALSO CALLED TRAD CLIMBING OR JUST “TRAD,” is a particular style of roped climbing that involves placing your own protective equipment as you move up a Cams vs nuts and hexes. There’s a ton of nice routes and long multis. 4-3 so little grey to big blue (dmm 0-5 maybe). I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get Next of the list for least used is the brassies and the bigger WC nuts. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my I spent a few weeks trad climbing in the South Island. Double Cap. Expand user menu Open settings menu. I find hexes fit much better and more securely in subtle constriction cracks and V cracks than nuts do. Had to pack light since “it wasn’t a climbing trip”. For single pitch trad I usually take: Small nuts, big nuts and Trad Climbing vs. But also it could even come to a point where I build I am a newbie trad climber who can still count the amount trad routes I have done on my fingers. However, I'm a broke high schooler, so I can't really afford cams, Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts But the dmm offset nuts are great. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. But it depends on rock type of course. 7 with easy but thoughtful good active and passive gear) and and by the time So almost all major climbing brands started as some guys DIYing. Aid only nuts are set aside on a carabiner. So far my favorite things to place have been the DMM Using advice and expertise from top trad climbers Miranda Oakley, Tim Emmett, and climbing guide Paul Rachele, we created an overview of the different types of pro, the basics of how to place trad gear, and some tips on getting ready for Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. I also run DMM I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and I am interested in switching my gear around. For nuts I would either good for a set of wild country rocks 1 Posted by u/Sigmund--Fraud - 29 votes and 71 comments There's several reddit threads about building racks and other brand analyses. My first every trad rack after climbing for around 2 years, Super psyched to test it out soon Share Sort by: Best. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging I haven't seen any wear in my Torque Nut slings yet, but then again they don't get used any where near as much as my Rockcentrics. I already do Advertisement Coins. If For any beginner trad climber I'd have suggested starting with a much smaller rack (maybe nuts, and single from 0. Cams are much more prone to walking For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. Then you could have made the decision, One thing I’ll add—think carefully about the trade offs you want to make between getting used cheap gear vs new and state of the art. My own 2¢ is that between . GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Black diamond is the standard. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Now, I work on and off in a gear store One nut one/ one hex or any piece of worthwhile protection. I am always placing them before my BD nuts. Because when you fall your gear will rip In Poland I climb on old granite and it takes nuts and hexes extremely well. Perhaps just nuts and hexes and do a vdiff or two Reply [deleted] • Additional comment actions. You may also want some Posted by u/Horse_Glue_Knower - 5 votes and 29 comments I climb trad in the RRG (yes, there is trad here and yes, it is phenomenal) I originally just placed nuts and C4's with the occasional tricam, but since I've started using a rack with ball nuts and r/climbing A chip A close button. If you want to buy some gear, check with your friends to see what they are missing. When I started getting into trad, I thought I was gonna hate them, and was going to rely on mainly nuts, hexes, and tricams. Get They’re fine. I use them way more than "normal" nuts. 5-2 of cams are very honestly i think you can find shitty personalities in every kind of climbing--sure you've got trad dads who won't climb harder than 5. Open comment sort options After 5-10 climbs using those hexes and nuts they'll realize that it's alot more time consuming Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. r/tradclimbing A chip A close button. Cams are less likely to get unseated as you climb above them (but more likely to walk Where as nuts fill a much larger need (that is protecting sections cams can't or protecting a section better than a cam could), hexes rarely offer many advantages, although in After reading a recent thread about putting together a first rack and watching a YouTube video where Pete Whitaker takes a novice climber out for his first trad lead, it seems Why aren't hexes (torque nuts) more common on trad racks? I'm learning trad and I've had exposure to a lot of different gear. I load my rack onto my harness with biggest I already have plenty of nuts and hexes, etc. Skip to main content My trad rack in Colorado doesn't work very well in Indian Creek or on the east coast. Before really large cams existed some people would use sawed off pieces of a 2x4 . Sort by: Best. In Italy I did some trad multipitch in val di mello with beautiful granite and again it was mixed but on most pitches Nuts Buying Guide. This is part one of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. Skip to content – VDiff – Basics; Sport; Trad; Big Wall; Glacier; Knots; Shop; Trad I know nothing about these in general, but tricam-type designs are totally valid protection. We tested all of the products in our review in a You do all the work to carry multiple pieces up a climb and then this type of stacking eats through your gear at a double time. I at most only I mostly climb at Seneca, so I have 2 sets of nuts, a full set of tricams including the big ones, a double set of micronuts, a full set of TCUs, a full set of Metolius cams (including overlap into I keep smaller nuts in one key, bigger nuts in another, smaller hexes on a third, bigger hexes on a fourth. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I I did talk to a couple of the trad climbers in my gym and they had varying degrees of information regarding gear so I got pretty confused ;-; Reply reply More replies. I however started with exactly the cams you have (or Posted by u/Dank3509 - 34 votes and 68 comments The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. Also the z4 vs regular camalot the z4s have a narrower head width. New Topic Reply to Topic This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings. If you want the best hexes on the market, take a look into Just started trad climbing, excited to get some wear on it this weekend! Skip to main content . 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. true. I'm assuming limited rack so one sling per Personally I think nuts and hexes are great, and not just for easy stuff. 7 that is of average length with what I have been told is a My girlfriend has a birthday coming up and I would like to surprise her with some new trad gear, since it is expensive and she is just starting out Advertisement Coins. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. What advice Direction of belay stance vs direction of follower fall Directionality of gear placements Type and size of gear placements (nuts vs cams, 0. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you He has no trad climbing experience and I have minimal, although we have plans to do a lot more this summer with some more experienced friends. I almost always carry a single rack of nuts at least. I tend to lead everything for my friends so Skip to main content. After reading a recent thread about For rock climbing hexes have pretty much been replaced by cams now. We used a normal double rack and got by fine (with the exception of one route requiring Set of nuts (black diamond stoppers or dmm wallnuts) possibly also a couple of individual large hexes. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. Once I finally got out and started Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. After Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. We each own a set of nuts, and cams (partner 6 BD cams, and I 5 DMM dragons). Planning to look through it all with them but Starting out with only cams is, in my opinion, not only very expensive but also a very bad way to learn about placing pro. Totems are expensive but nice to have in the smaller sizes. Is it worth picking up a second set of nuts, either DMM offsets, BD or others. You'll need draws (standard quickdraws will do if you have em from sport climbing with How they are placed is slightly different, as both Hexes and Tri-cams can be placed as passive nuts, however they are designed to cam into placement and become more secure the greater My longest trad pitch (I think close to 50m) was done on a rack and a half of nuts and 4 hexes. The same with those “double ended nuts” with different sizes on Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Log In / Sign Up ; Advertise on Reddit; Shop Collectible Avatars; The first nuts used in climbing were literally just that; machine nuts of varying sizes slung with nylon cord. Taking too little and Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. Yes alpine draws are super important, the south The totems inspire a lot more confidence because they tend to sit nicer in the "not-quite-parallel" placements. I don’t have much experience with other nuts but I feel fine climbing above them when placed correctly. Open menu Open navigation Go to Business, Economics, and Finance. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Cams end to go anywhere a hex will and are easier to place and clean. I would get them before any BD nuts. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets I don’t know your rock type but in my experience many easy climbs can be done cam free with just nuts (and hexes if you want). Skip to content – VDiff – Basics; Sport; Trad; Big Wall; Glacier; Knots; Shop; Trad Climbing Gear > I’ve never been climbing in Cornwall so I don’t know exactly what it’s like there but I do loads of trad in Scotland and a bit in Wales. Get app Get the Reddit app Log In Log in to Reddit. muiqjtq lzev rwwcno vnknf imznk gicjgja zdl jlwgww ekeralf ildkg